Brewer's Art

Brewer's Art
1106 N. Charles St.
Mt. Vernon, Baltimore
American (new)
www.belgianbeer.com
410-547-6925
Cost: $$$
Reservations: Varies
Date of meal: Sunday September 23, 2007 (8pm)
National Price-Quality Frontier: Inside It
Baltimore Price-Quality Frontier: Inside It

Brewer's Art is very hard to categorize and for a few reasons. One is that for price-point purposes it is really two restaurants: a bar and a restaurant

• Bar: In the front, they have a lounge and bar that serves pub fare. The bar has "light fare" like burgers, sandwiches and pizza ($8-$11). Note that there are lounge tables here, so you don't have to stand or sit at the bar.
  
• Restaurant: In the back, they have a restaurant that serves more substantial entrees. The entrees are rather pricey ($17-$27, where only the vegetarian pasta and one chicken dish are below $22). Note that the restaurant runs a special to get people in on Sunday and Monday nights: a half-dozen $15 bottles of wine. These are entirely drinkable and constitute a great deal; they are also a loss-leader to get you in the door to order the very expensive entrees.
• Both Bar and Restaurant: Both share in common the salads and appetizers ($7-$12). Desserts (which I assume you can get in the bar) are in the $7 range.
  

The upshot of this is that you could plausibly put Brewer's Art into three price-points (see my cost key for the price ranges they imply):

• $$: If you aren't committed to sitting down in the restaurant and ordering entrees, Brewer's Art is moderately priced.
• $$$: If you eat in the restaurant on a Sunday or Monday with the express purpose of ordering a $15 bottle of wine, Brewer's Art is a bit pricey but not unreasonable (I'll say the wine deal is really an entree subsidy so I'll include it in the $$$).
• $$$$: If you eat in the restaurant and order meat or fish entrees, Brewer's Art is quite (and in my view, too) expensive.
  

While I haven't eaten in in the bar/lounge, I suspect this is the better deal. This is confirmed by the fact that it was full on a Sunday night while the restaurant was nearly empty. I plan to come back to try the lounge. Note that you may have trouble getting a table in the lounge during peak times (and I suspect you can't make a reservation for the lounge).

The other reason that it is hard to categorize is that it is very upscale to be a Belgian brew pub.

I liked the decor a lot. The dining room is decorated like an old-world library in a private home in the 19th century. This works better than when I've seen it tried elsewhere, as in The Barclay Prime steakhouse in Philadelphia which adds modernist elements that make it look like they are trying too hard. Brewer's Art reminds me a bit (but only a bit) like the room in The Matrix where Neo is asked to choose between the "blue pill" and the "red pill", but not nearly as run-down. Brewer's Art does look a bit run-down but in a good way, like the building has been around forever and the furniture is nice but old.

With a name like Brewer's Art, you know (or at least suspect) that they take beer seriously. Please note that their website is www.belgianbeer.com; how this wasn't taken is beyond me. They have several beers they brew themselves (and lots of other beers also), so if you like Belgian beer and/or microbrews you probably want to come here. I do like these and didn't get a chance to try these, so I'm looking forward to returning to sit in the lounge and try their pub food and Belgian beers.

Our dining experience had some problems that I'll detail, but I want to lead with the fact that a) some problems in the restaurant were probably idiosyncratic (aka, our bad luck and unlikely to be repeated) and b) this doesn't really reflect badly on the bar/lounge which is very different and I can't wait to try.

We ordered:

• wine ($15, see above) : petite syrah (entirely drinkable, excellent at that price, I'm guessing it is a $10 bottle in a wine store)
• appetizer ($7): pork belly with peaches. At this price-point, I thought this wasn't bad. However, the beaches were cold which was definitely not the way to go and the pork belly , while cooked properly, arrived insufficiently warm. Sauce was nice.
• pasta entree ($17): gnocchi with caramelized shallots and chanterelle mushrooms. This was very good.
• steak frites ($26): fries were too salty. Steak was solid but not amazing. Wine-shallot sauce was a bit heavy for my taste. Frites were too salty but had lots of great herbs (rosemary?) that made the NaCl-fest tolerable.
  
• chocolate torte ($7): pretty good, but the chocolate lacked the rich intensity you want in a torte

According to our server, the chef "accidentally turned the oven off" which led to a 40 minute gap between our ordering and the arrival of the appetizer. I could imagine this being a serious problem if you were even a bit pressed for time. The other off-putting thing about the meal was that my spouse discovered a (rather small and cute) cockroach on the wood wall's wood paneling. This is an old building and such things are probably inevitable and I have no reason to believe the restaurant is in any way unhygienic. The fact that I'm looking forward to going back to the lounge shows I don't think this is a big deal. Still, I could imagine that some people would find this a serious problem also.

Our server was excellent. She was straight with us about which of the inexpensive wines to choose and had a helpful, straightforward, and unstuffy manner that I found appealing given the slightly stuffy decor in the restaurant. One thing she did I really liked was pour both of us a taste of the wine (instead of just the man in the group, which I've always thought was a bit sexist).

In sum, I would return to the lounge for Belgian beer and pub food, but I found the restaurant too expensive for the quality.

Three...

Three...
2901 E. Baltimore St.
Canton/Highlandtown, Baltimore
410-327-3333
American (New)
Cost: $$$
Reservations: Not Accepted
Date of meal: Thursday, September 13, 2007 (8:30pm)
National Price-Quality Frontier: Inside It
Baltimore Price-Quality Frontier: On It

Last night, my spouse and I went to Three... This is a new restaurant on the northeast corner of Patterson Park. They don't take reservations, but there were plenty of tables at 8:30pm on a Thursday night. We took an inside table; outside tables on the street looking across at the park were all taken. (There was a disruptive and drug-addicted woman waving a half-used roll of toilet paper and a tube of Pringles outside, so I'm glad we sat inside.)

Three... has character. (This was a fact noted in a review in the Baltimore CityPaper.) I liked the vibe tremendously. As you enter, there is "Rx" laid into the marble-like composite at your feet; Three.. was a pharmacy in a past life. (Three... bears a slight resemblance to Rx restaurant in Philadelphia, perhaps for this reason; it used to be a pharmacy too but tries to run with it.) The walls are exposed brick, with richly- colored, abstract paintings on the wall. These were a bit like a cross between a Rothko and a Pollack. As you enter, the room is narrow and deep, with windows (and one table) on your right and a row of 4-6 tables against an exposed brick wall on your left. Half-way down the room, the space becomes an appealing bar. A hole was cut into the exposed brick on the left so that you can see the second room of seating for diners. This was decorated with black-and-white photographs (as best as I could see looking through the hole cut in the exposed brick). I liked the light fixtures that hang over the row of tables against the inner wall. Against the wall was a long bench, with a colorfully patterned upholstery. Music was by St. Germain. All night. (Dear Management, please get an iPod and set it on shuffle; variety is the spice of life.)

The menu is mostly tapas in size and New American in cuisine. Our server was very friendly and helpful. (We chatted a bit, and she was interesting too.) She recommended her favorite tapas dishes. We ordered 5 tapas dishes, mostly ones she recommended. I can't tell you about two of these (one with figs, another with tuna) because they were out of these by the time we ordered them. I'm all for running a tight inventory so you don't keep things longer than they are fresh. It would be ideal not to recommend dishes that have run out, but our server was funny and friendly about it and I don't mind at all. We ordered two more dishes.

We ate:

1. thinly-sliced, lightly-fried eggplant with a tomato compote/marmalade (there is a fancy name for this which I am forgetting). It was way too salty, almost to the point of being inedible. My spouse loves salt in her food to the point that I make jokes about it, and we both felt this way. Our server was kind enough to keep bringing us water; I didn't have the heart to tell her this reflected the saltiness of the dish and not my dehydration. Of course, I have no trouble telling all of you.
2. barbecue pork ribs with a garlic rub. These fell off the bone and were great. Too bad they were also way too salty.
3. scallops ($12) with a yellow pepper puree and crispy leek strings. Scallops were fresh and cooked just enough but not too much. The puree was nice but could have used a bit more punch. The crispy leeks are a brilliant idea. Why don't we see more of them in other dishes? (Think fried onion strings except with really thin slivers of leek, so thin that frying them doesn't make them oily but crispy.) The chef is really onto something here. I liked this dish but thought the sauce/puree was a bit too subtle.
4. ceviche, served on a bed of limes and orange rounds. Ceviche is tough to nail. In my view the trick is to put enough acid on it to "cook" it (so we don't get sick when eating it) while still having a complex and not overpowering flavor when eating it. To my taste, this ceviche was good but a bit overpowering.
5. flank steak with papaya, onions, and tomatoes. This dish was awesome. I loved it. Subtle, unusual, tasty, with high-quality ingredients. Steak cooked just right. Completely owesome.
6. dessert ($6): chocolate chess pie from Dangerously Delicious Pies. Very good. Served with whip cream because they were out of ice-cream.
   

Three... has a fair bit in common with Salt. Salt is trying a bit too hard to be hip, whereas Three... has a more inviting, neighborly, and personalized feel. (Our server knew we hadn't been there because she hadn't seen us before; we got great service even though we weren't regulars.) Both have interesting combinations of ingredients and a fun environment. Both have names that are too common to google without difficulty; Three... is especially bad in this because the street address is also the city name. Ironically, the thing that Three... had that Salt did not was too much salt in the food. I liked this place a lot. The price point is appropriate by national standards and therefore cheap by Baltimore standards. (We spent $68 including tax but not tip for a full meal for two and one glass of wine each. Three... is probably cheaper than Salt.) Decor, service, vibe and menu make me want to absolutely love it; execution of a few dishes was problematic and this makes me only like it a lot. (I'm hopeful these kinks can be worked out; after all this is a new restaurant.)

This restaurant would be absolutely perfect for a nice date. I would recommend it and happily return. If they would work the kinks out of their food preparation, it would be on my favorite restaurants anywhere in the country.

Chameleon Cafe

Chameleon Cafe
4341 Harford Rd.
Lauraville, Baltimore
410-254-2376
New American
www.thechameleoncafe.com
Cost: $$$
Reservations: Not Needed
Date of meal: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 (6:30pm)
National Price-Quality Frontier: Inside It
Baltimore Price-Quality Frontier: Inside It

Chameleon Cafe is a pleasant but low-key place tucked in a row of cute stores but next to a supermarket on a busy road. The dining room is set back from the main road and high windows insulate the place from the market next door. Coupled with the sponge-painted burnt orange walls, it almost gives the place a Mexican-style stucco feel.

Service was very good. The specialty of the house is updated Maryland fare, made from high-quality local ingredients. Our server spent quite a bit of time highlighting where meets and vegetables for various dishes were raised or grown, and giving suggestions. There were no specials on the menu, though we had been told that the menu had recently been changed. While the menu highlights the origin of some of the ingredients, I confess that the flavors described didn't really leap out at me. Entrees were all in the low $20s.

Chameleon Cafe has a wine list and an extensive selection of interesting bottled beers. I had a decent trappist ale, for example.

To start, I ordered a corn bisque, which was far too salty. A dining companion ordered a different soup and also found it too salty. The friend green tomatoes another ordered as an appetizer were excellent, reflecting the excellent tomatoes used. I had their duck entree. The duck was of excellent quality and cooked perfectly. Unfortunately, the sauce in which it was served was bland and uninteresting. It was served with green beens that were plain but excellent in quality and preparation. The duck was served on a homey bed of chopped up potatoes, corn, and some sort of bean (lima?). It tasted like clam chowder without the clams and the chowder. Come to think of it, my bisque tasted like that too... but with more salt. Given the ingredients used in the food, the pricing seemed appropriate. However, the execution made me feel it was a bit overpriced.

While I liked the concept of Chameleon Cafe (excellent local ingredients prepared simply), I think the execution was only so-so. At this price point and style of food, I would prefer b Bistro. Still, if I was in northeast Baltimore, I'd be happy to eat at Chameleon Cafe.

Salt

Salt
2127 E. Pratt St.
Butcher's Hill, Baltimore
410-276-5480
New American
www.salttavern.com
Cost: $$$
Reservations: Recommended
Date of meal: weekday in July, 2007 (9pm)
National Price-Quality Frontier: Inside It
Baltimore Price-Quality Frontier: On It


Salt has a simple, elegant, hip vibe that makes you very cool for going there. The place was full of very cool people, even on a weekday at 9pm. Even so, we were able to get a table pretty much immediately and without a reservation.

My spouse enjoyed a colorful alcoholic beverage in a martini glass. We had the duck-fat french fries, which were actually a little disappointing given the gluttony implied by the name. Given the restaurant's name, I guess I shouldn't be surprised to find their fries too salty. On the plus side, the aoili dipping sauces were underwhelming. Still, our entrees were outstanding. We had an excellent white fish, which was elegantly presented and perfectly cooked. I had a beef (I think, how embarrassing that I'm not sure) three ways, and I remember liking all three preparations. Entrees were in the $20-25 range.

I liked Salt quite a bit and plan to return.

Bicycle

Bicycle
1444 Light St.
Federal Hill, Baltimore
410-234-1900
New American
www.bicyclebistro.com
Cost: $$$$
Reservations: Recommended
Date of meal: Thursday July 26, 2007
National Price-Quality Frontier: On It
Baltimore Price-Quality Frontier: Extends It


Bicycle has a beautiful outdoor patio that we really enjoyed, though the interior decor is very nice as well. This is a standard, very good $25 entree New American restaurant. It would be great to bring parents or a date for a special occasion, or to go for a work function. It is nice and upscale but not fussy or uptight. It's quiet without being oppressive.

We were really impressed with the entrees, which included an outstanding braised short-rib dish and a great chocolate dessert. If you want to spend this amount on dinner at a nice but not fancy restaurant, I haven't found a better spot in Baltimore.

b bistro

b Bistro
1501 Bolton St. (at Mosher)
Bolton Hill, Baltimore
410-383-8600
New American
www.b-bistro.com
Cost: $$$
Reservations: Recommended
Date of meal: several
National Price-Quality Frontier: On It
Baltimore Price-Quality Frontier: Extends It


b is a simple but outstanding bistro. The ambiance is clean and unpretentious but also attractive and tasteful. You would feel comfortable eating in jeans here and also comfortable bringing your stuffy grandmother. (Not that my grandmother is stuffy; she is adorable and sweet.) Pastas are great; fish is great; desserts are great. Entrees are reasonably priced (entree cost: about $18-24) given the quality. Service is good too. They have outdoor seating as well. Really, I have nothing negative to say about the place.

Peter's Inn

Peter's Inn
504 S. Ann St.
Fells Point, Baltimore
410-675-7313
New American/Eclectic
www.petersinn.com
Cost: $$$
Reservations: Not Accepted
Date of meal: Wednesday July 18, 2007
National Price-Quality Frontier: On It
Baltimore Price-Quality Frontier: Extends It


Peter's Inn is perhaps my favorite spot to eat in Baltimore. It looks like a biker or dive bar, but the dishes are creative, well-prepared, and delicious. It reminded me of Deluxe in Boston, but with more inventive food. The atmosphere is funky and interesting; walls are covered with random stuff that doesn't quite go together and isn't supposed to. On Wednesdays, they had a few outstanding half-price wines (regularly $30-$40/bottle) that were available by the glass or bottle. I had a lamb dish that was amazing. A friend we brought raved about the cheddar grits. We had an amazing chocolate mousse. Prices (entrees <$20) struck me as quite low given the food quality. Of course, they were probably high if one pays for fancy ambiance. Service was good. We walked right in without a problem, but it was 6pm Wednesday; it is easy to imagine the place being packed on Saturday at 8pm. I could come up with negative things to say about the place (plates were way to big for the tables), but mostly this is just looking for things to pick at. I thought Peter's Inn was really special. If you aren't stuffy and like interesting places to eat that serve good food, it is tough to beat.